Gavin, Stacey, Smithy and others on Barry Island beach
With news that Ruth Jones aka Nessa from Gavin and Stacey hopped on board a sightseeing tour bus visiting the famous locations in Barry Island this weekend, we thought we’d share with you journalist student Emma Weinbren’s thoughts of what’s occuring since Gavin and Stacey gave Barry Island a new lease of life.
Cast your mind back to a few years ago, and what came to mind when you thought of Barry Island? Golden sands? An action-packed pleasure park? Or an altogether less appealing image? To tell you the truth, Barry Island hasn’t always had a glowing reputation. And I’m not gonna lie to you – the seaside resort hasn’t always been part of Wales’ must-see tourist trail either. But it took just one Essex boy and one Barry Island girl to change all that.
Accompanied by a curry-loving builder and John Prescott’s favourite female trucker, the foursome made Barry Island a cult tourist destination. As Gavin and Stacey fever hit the UK, fans flocked to see Nessa and Stacey’s beloved stomping ground. Barry Island was given an instant image makeover. And with talk of a spin-off series with Rob Brydon, the mania for the British sitcom shows no sign of dying down. But what is it, exactly, that makes Barry so special?
Gavin and Stacey’s Barry
As any Gavin and Stacey fan will know, Stacey was reluctant to swap Barry for the delights of Gavin’s family home in Essex. Jobless and lonely, she yearned to return to Barry’s fair shores and waxed lyrical about its superior charms. But while we can’t back up all of Stacey’s claims – among other things, she insisted it never rained in Barry – we can vouch for the island’s appeal.
From the moment you set foot on Barry Island, it’s clear Gavin and Stacey has left its mark. Walking towards the beach, you soon pass the arcade where Nessa “took care of” local troublemakers. Just moments away lies Marco’s Café, where Stacey was successfully hired for her tea and coffee-making skills. And outside the town hall, viewers will recognise the spot Nessa elegantly posed as a living statue. Yes, Barry really does have it all.
Bringing back the British Seaside
But aside from sightseeing, there’s an even more important reason why fans come here. Thanks to Gavin and Stacey, the traditional British seaside has made a comeback. Who didn’t lovingly recall childhood holidays as Smithy took on the arcades? And who could help but reminisce as the dysfunctional gang sunbathed on the beach? It was enough to even make Bryn fondly remember the day his brother dangled him over the nearby cliffs. He broke both his arms, but it was all “good fun”, of course.
Yes, Barry brings back early memories of what holidays were like before we swapped our shores for Spain’s sun and sangria. And although we can now enjoy luxury holidays abroad, we will always have a soft spot for resorts like Barry. Here you can enjoy a healthy dose of sun, sea and golden sand, all capped off with salty fish and chips. And if you feel like indulging your inner child, the pleasure park and ice cream stalls are always close at hand. Cliff-dangling, we would like to add, is strictly optional.
So when the sun’s out, don a sundress – or in Nessa’s case, a sturdy pair of biker boots – and make your way down to Barry Island. There’s a lot more occurring here than you might think.
It’s dusk in Aberaeron and the harbor sparkles with shimmering wine glasses and colored lights strung amidst the lamp posts. The boat docks overflow with revelers toasting a brisk late summer evening as the tide rolls into the doorstep of the Harbourmaster Hotel. To dine here is to experience a culinary tribute to some of the best local produce and meats in the country. We owe our good fortune to our FB friend Katy Clamp who recommended it. My dragon Red’s mouth is watering so much, he can’t breathe fire.
We’re joined for dinner by blue badge tour guide Bill O’Keefe, the architect of our trip and a living encyclopedia of everything Wales. He regales us with tales of the town’s grand shipping history when captains built painted Georgian houses arrayed like a jelly bean rainbow. If the indigo colored Harbormaster Hotel were a flavor, it would most certainly be candied grape, welcoming weary travelers to a sweet retreat. Its thirteen rooms and suites, dressed in lavender, aqua, berry and celadon green echo the colors of the verdant Welsh landscape.
Dinner is a succulent Welsh lamb with red wine jus, potatoes and sweet peas for Red and I. Our guide, Bill, can hardly contain his enthusiasm for the thick cuts of Welsh Black beef placed before him. This Welsh native thinks it just might be the best he’s ever had. We dine with abandon, savoring each juicy bite and finish the meal with a tray of Welsh cheeses. Red is eager to try the cheese that bears his name: “Red Dragon,” a cheddar made with brown ale and mustard seeds. Alas, it’s not on today’s menu so we choose Caerphilly instead.
Red enjoys the view at the Harbourmaster
Later, we sink into the warm sheep’s wool blanket on our bed and listen to the sound of friends outside enjoying a late night under the moon. Their muted chatter lulls us off to sleep. We awake to a view of cheerful boats bobbing in the Harbor, colored specs against a moody sky. The town is bustling with tourists and vacationers sampling clothing boutiques and gift shops. We wander for a while then make our way northeast into mid-Wales.
We’re on our way to Macyhnlleth, named the “ancient capital of Wales,” in honor of the first Welsh parliament, founded by Owain Glyndwr, a revolutionary historic figure who was dubbed the last native Prince of Wales. The parliament building still stands, and inside an interactive exhibit tells Glyndwr’s story. His flag, four lions in crimson and gold, flies throughout the town as a testament to the near mythical power of his memory in the hearts and minds of the Welsh people.
The Center for Alternative Technology's Quary Cafe
This is our first stop in mid-Wales and we’re impressed by the dramatic difference in scenery and atmosphere. Perhaps its association with Glyndŵr, who envisioned the first Welsh universities, explains why Machynlleth has the vibe of a true college town, although there’s no college in sight. These days it’s deeply influenced by a contemporary movement in Welsh consciousness, led by the eco-focused Center for Alternative Technology. Just outside the town, the center draws an eclectic group of hippie types whose presence can be felt in the vegetarian café and natural medicine shop that grace the town’s main strip.
We lunch on vegan sweet potato soup and green salad at the Center’s Quary Café, then Red is stopped in his dragon tracks by a very appealing display of the meats at the neighboring butchery. He thinks that this is where we should have eaten. A sign in the window confirms we have discovered the yin and yang of Machynlleth. In contrast to the vegan fare at the neighboring Quary Café, this sign asserts: “All the meat sold in this shop is vegetarian. They eat the green green grass. Humans eat them and just speed up the progress.” It seems the fine purveyors of fresh local meats at William Lloyd Williams and Son have their own vision of what it means to be green. In a country where there are nearly three and a half sheep for every person, these Dovey Valley butchers are part of a proud tradition. We love that there’s room for everyone’s views and taste buds in Machynlleth.
Though Red doesn’t get his meatetarian meal, he does get a good look at the butcher’s extensive selection. Then we hop back into the car en route to Harlech Castle. We pass through the little market town of Dolgellau where we notice a marked difference in the architecture from Aberaeron. The grey stone buildings remind us of Ivy League schools like Princeton and Yale back in the States. But here in Wales, these stone walls sometimes belie their serious facades. Nowhere is this more evident than in the seaside town of Barmouth where signs like “Chuck’s American Diner” and “Fudgeridoo” preside over what would be hallowed halls of the finest intellectual establishments at home. Far from an ivied town with a stiff upper lip, Barmouth is all seaside summer fun. Palm trees line the sandy beachfront dunes opposite the boardwalk pier and the mini-golf. We’d love to stay for a taste of fudge but Harlech Castle awaits us further up the road…
My pet dragon Red and I are back on the road in Wales, making our way from Swansea toward the Pembrokeshire coast. We arrive just after the rain stops, perfect timing for an afternoon stroll down the narrow stone streets of Tenby. The town is full of excitement with children zipping through the candy stores and gift shops. Even on a cool day like this one, Tenby radiates the carefree appeal of a summer holiday.
We pass rows of pastel painted houses and admire the sailboats whizzing about the harbor. We climb the hill to the old castle walls where Red stops to admire a little canon. Being a fire breather himself, he’s fascinated with canons so he just has to have his photo taken here. That’s when I notice the Tenby Museum and Art Gallery. It’s the oldest independent museum in Wales tucked inside section of the original medieval castle. Admiring the artists’ interpretations of beautiful vistas, houses and historic sites allows us to see Tenby through an alternate lens.
Joe's Ice Cream in Solva
We could spend weeks in this lovely summer haven, but we’ve got more miles to cover so we head out again hugging the coast as we make our way toward St. David’s. Somewhere along the road, we realize that we never did find that Joe’s Ice cream stand we heard about from Victoria, Beverly and Tracey on Facebook. It sounded so scrumptious, that we actually think about going back. But just then, we pass a Joe’s sign in a little town called Solva. Red flies out of the car and heads straight for it, and I am so glad we stopped. Not only is Joe’s the most luscious ice cream I’ve ever tasted, Solva captures my imagination with its quaint main street full of art galleries and craft shops. Our Facebook friends John Burns and Sue Wilson were right to recommend it.
Raul Speek Gallery in Solva
We wander past an inviting wildflower garden bursting with color as it slopes up a hill and toward the old town chapel. Inside, we find the work of Cuban born artist and musician Raul Speek. Paintings full of passion merge tropical colors with local images. The marriage of a vibrant Cuban aesthetic with the mystical Welsh coast casts a seductive spell. Raul’s paintings echo the day-dreamy charm of Solva. Red has to summon all his dragon powers to avoid the fate of two cats lulled to sleep by Raul’s enchanting painted fish. The magic of this shop lingers over us as we make our way toward the town’s Quay.
We admire the tiny harbor dotted with sailboats and families on holiday. I am tempted to take a cruise around the little islands off Solva’s coast, but after all that ice cream, Red has a dragon sized craving for fish & chips. Even the chance to see a live lobster pot on a Solva Boat Trip can’t pull him away from lunch. So we stop at a cottage restaurant called ThirtyFIVE, where you can sit by the harbor and dine on crab and lobster caught on their fishing boat. The food is fresh, humble but delicious. Next time we come to Wales, we’ll stay above ThirtyFIVE in the Feliniog Bed and Breakfast. It promises some of the most magnificent views of Solva’s harbor. But for now, it’s onward down the road and into St. David’s to see the Cathedral.
St. David's Cathedral
It’s amazing how a few miles can yield a dramatic change in the weather. The patron saint of Wales shines over this day with glorious clear skies in St. David’s. The sun is out, the heat is on and what seems like a thousand flower garden cafes are brimming with hungry travelers. There are families picnicking, hikers, fishing enthusiasts, boaters, swimmers and of course, pilgrims. In fact, it was once said that two pilgrimages to St. Davids equaled one to Rome. One glimpse of the stunning cathedral and we understand why. Its ancient walls hold the spiritual heart of Wales, carved into the ornate oak ceiling, reflected in the jeweled glass windows, and renewed in the services held here each day.
Red’s sharp dragon eyes catch ghost-like figures cast across a few stone pillars in the cathedral. It turns out they’re not ghosts at all. Rather, he’s haunted by a pair of blurry painted images, once vibrant religious renderings designed to inspire worshippers. Their muted presence reminds us that across the centuries, the saints, clergymen and devotees who dedicated their lives to this cathedral still live on in its walls. Stepping out into the late afternoon sun, we’re awestruck by the silent majesty of St. David’s. It makes us long to experience one of nature’s cathedrals, and so the Pembrokeshire Coast National Park beckons. We head out to witness sunset atop its stony hills.
Dina's Head Trail
Dina’s head is an easy two-hour hike circling from the eastern edge of Fishguard Bay to Newport Bay and back. Ascending up hills of pink heather and onto soft green cliffs, we watch the mists roll up the rocks from the beaches below. Scenes of children playing in the sand give way to groves of lazy cattle and sheep grazing contently on sweet grasses. Red is in dragon-heaven and thinks he just might make this his new lair. But much as we want to camp here for the night, we’re due in Aberaeron for dinner and an overnight treat at one of the finest spots in town…
Visit Wales latest: around the world of Wales in three days. Part two: seduced in Solva; saved in St. David’s: http://tinyurl.com/2djwm776 days ago
VisitWales.co.uk Latest - Around the World of Wales in 3 Days. Part 2: Seduced in Solva; Saved in St. David’s - Find it here: 6 days ago
The cliff-top infinity pool at St. Brides Spa Hotel in Saundersfoot drops into the harbor. Absolutely love it! #TNI1 week ago
Not quite a rain forest unless the sprinklers are on, but the botanic garden in Wales has the world's largest single-span glasshouse #TNI ;) 1 week ago
